Hunting shotgun actions are broken down into three categories: auto loader, pump, and break action. I've used all of these, and have found that each has pros and cons. Keep in mind that this doesn't mean that an action is a good or bad choice, these are just my opinions based on personal experience.
Auto Loaders
Pros Cons
-Multiple fast follow up shots -More difficult to reload than a pump or
-Reduced felt recoil break action
-Last shot holds the bolt open -May not cycle properly with lighter loads
-Multiple sight and barrel options -Can malfunction if exposed to mud and other
-Allows you to swing smoothly with your elements
target as you fire -Only one choke can be used at a time
-Most difficult to clean
Pump Action
Pros Cons
-Doesn't use gas pressure to cycle, so it provides -Slowest rate of fire for follow up shots
the most accurate and hardest hitting fire -Only one choke can be used at a time
-Reliable manual action cycling rarely jams -Requires you to adjust your aim after cycling
-Multiple sight and barrel options -No notification when the last round is fired
-Can be the least expensive action type
Break Action (Dual Barrel Side By Side or Over / Under)
Pros Cons
-Rapid second shot firing -Only holds two rounds
-Multiple chokes can be used at -Typically only used for upland birds
the same time -Slowest to reload (if it doesn't have
-Can be the most expensive to purchase ejectors)
-Easiest to clean -Few sight and barrel options
-Easiest to reload
Break Action (Single Barrel)
Pros Cons
-Great gun to learn how to make every -Single shot
shot count -Not commonly found
-The slowest follow up shot
So there you go. These are just a few things off the top of my head that I remember when comparing them. I hope this helps you decide what's best for you.
Thanks for reading,
-Rhody
26 December 2011
22 December 2011
Shotgun Selection Part 4 - Shot Shell Selection
The type of shot shell you use should reflect what you are hunting. There are as many shot loads as there are opinions about them. Here's my take about them, and what I use.
The length of the loads you will use depends on what your shotgun is chambered for. The hull is measured by the length after it has been fired. Standard size is 2 3/4". 3" and 3 1/2" magnum rounds have more shot in them, hit harder, but kick harder as well. I've always used 2 3/4" for water fowl and upland birds with no problems and have occasionally used the 3" magnum loads for turkey. I have tried the 3 1/2" and have decided it kicks too hard for my taste. Always shoot what you are comfortable with, and can handle safely.
The size and amount of shot (measured in ounces) in each shell should be chosen based on patterning results and what you plan to hunt. See this link for charts regarding these. The loads I usually carry are 2 3/4" #6 and #4 lead. I typically have a modified choke inserted, and stack the rounds to fire a #6 first followed by #4(s). I found that this produces the best pattern for a close shot and farther followups.
The material that shot is made of varies. They come made of lead and lead free loads such as steel, bismuth, and tungsten. In this particular order, the price also increases for each box of shells. As a general rule; if you use steel or bismuth, go up two shot sizes from what you normally use in lead. Tungsten Shot size stays the same as lead due to its density. Check your local laws regarding what type of shot you can use. For example, waterfowl is lead free shot only.
Buck shot is usually used for home defense and law enforcement applications, but some still use it to take deer. The disadvantage with this load is that it's short range.
Slugs are the long range answer to buckshot. I've used the rifled (Foster) and the sabot slugs. The difference between the two is this:
Rifled slugs are designed to be fired from a smooth bore barrel. The rifling formed in the slug catches the
resistance of the air, and causes it to spin.
Sabot slugs are encased in a plastic sabot, and are fired from rifled barrels. The sabot catches the
rifling in the barrel, and the spin gives you a highly accurate long range shot.
Thanks for reading,
-Rhody
The length of the loads you will use depends on what your shotgun is chambered for. The hull is measured by the length after it has been fired. Standard size is 2 3/4". 3" and 3 1/2" magnum rounds have more shot in them, hit harder, but kick harder as well. I've always used 2 3/4" for water fowl and upland birds with no problems and have occasionally used the 3" magnum loads for turkey. I have tried the 3 1/2" and have decided it kicks too hard for my taste. Always shoot what you are comfortable with, and can handle safely.
The size and amount of shot (measured in ounces) in each shell should be chosen based on patterning results and what you plan to hunt. See this link for charts regarding these. The loads I usually carry are 2 3/4" #6 and #4 lead. I typically have a modified choke inserted, and stack the rounds to fire a #6 first followed by #4(s). I found that this produces the best pattern for a close shot and farther followups.
The material that shot is made of varies. They come made of lead and lead free loads such as steel, bismuth, and tungsten. In this particular order, the price also increases for each box of shells. As a general rule; if you use steel or bismuth, go up two shot sizes from what you normally use in lead. Tungsten Shot size stays the same as lead due to its density. Check your local laws regarding what type of shot you can use. For example, waterfowl is lead free shot only.
Buck shot is usually used for home defense and law enforcement applications, but some still use it to take deer. The disadvantage with this load is that it's short range.
Slugs are the long range answer to buckshot. I've used the rifled (Foster) and the sabot slugs. The difference between the two is this:
Rifled slugs are designed to be fired from a smooth bore barrel. The rifling formed in the slug catches the
resistance of the air, and causes it to spin.
Sabot slugs are encased in a plastic sabot, and are fired from rifled barrels. The sabot catches the
rifling in the barrel, and the spin gives you a highly accurate long range shot.
Thanks for reading,
-Rhody
20 December 2011
Shotgun Selection Part 3 - Chokes And Patterning
When firing a shotgun you should have a pattern of shot that is the proper density to provide a humane and quick kill. This is done by having the appropriate choke setting, and using the ammunition that you will hunt with.
The choke on a shotgun comes in different sizes, allowing the hunter to determine what percentage of shot (density) they want to hit the target area. Shotguns come in two choke designs; a fixed setting at the end of the muzzle that can not be changed, and a screw in that allows you to change the choke tube sizes.
So how do you know what setting you have? On a fixed barrel, the type of choke is stamped into the barrel usually a couple of inches above where it meets the receiver. For the screw in tubes, look on the side of them.
When patterning, try different load and choke combinations and factor in the distance of your shot. Here's a list of the steps I take when patterning:
1. Check for an appropriate backstop.
2. Place 30" circular targets at 10, 20, 30, and 40 yards spaced a few feet to the side of each other so
that each shot fired won't show on the other targets.
3. Use the same loads and chokes I will be hunting with.
4. Fire one shot into each target, aiming at the center point.
5. Collect the targets and check the density of each group.
If you have a good grouping of pellets ( I prefer about 3 pellets per sq. inch) in the 30" circle, that is an effective range for that choke and load combination. Remember that at shorter ranges, the diameter of your shot pattern will be smaller and the grouping will be tighter.
-Thanks for reading,
Rhody
The choke on a shotgun comes in different sizes, allowing the hunter to determine what percentage of shot (density) they want to hit the target area. Shotguns come in two choke designs; a fixed setting at the end of the muzzle that can not be changed, and a screw in that allows you to change the choke tube sizes.
So how do you know what setting you have? On a fixed barrel, the type of choke is stamped into the barrel usually a couple of inches above where it meets the receiver. For the screw in tubes, look on the side of them.
 |
| The type of choke determines the density and range of the load. |
When patterning, try different load and choke combinations and factor in the distance of your shot. Here's a list of the steps I take when patterning:
1. Check for an appropriate backstop.
2. Place 30" circular targets at 10, 20, 30, and 40 yards spaced a few feet to the side of each other so
that each shot fired won't show on the other targets.
3. Use the same loads and chokes I will be hunting with.
4. Fire one shot into each target, aiming at the center point.
5. Collect the targets and check the density of each group.
If you have a good grouping of pellets ( I prefer about 3 pellets per sq. inch) in the 30" circle, that is an effective range for that choke and load combination. Remember that at shorter ranges, the diameter of your shot pattern will be smaller and the grouping will be tighter.
-Thanks for reading,
Rhody
15 December 2011
Shotgun Selection Part 2 - Stock And Fore End Materials, Length Of Pull
The material that the stock and fore end are made of differs between makes and models. Some are offered in a wood, and others in a synthetic polymer. What you choose should reflect your personal preference based on looks and durability.
A wood stock and fore end add a classic beauty to any shotgun, especially if its a high grade walnut. However, it does requires extra care and cleaning to keep it looking like new. Because of the added weight, it will absorb more recoil than synthetic parts. Wood can chip, splinter, crack, and discolor if it's not cared for properly. Mink or boiled linseed oil does wonders on finished and non finished wood in terms of weatherproofing, and restoring the original finish. If you should happen to put a dent in the wood, here's a couple of tips for repairing it:
Place a washcloth over the dented area. Use an iron on a medium setting and steam the damaged area, checking every couple of seconds for effect.
Another way to repair a dent is to place a drop of water on it and let it set overnight.
Both will cause the compressed wood to swell, and the dent will remove its self.
Synthetics is the most durable material that stocks and fore ends are made of. They are weather proof, and don't require the upkeep that wood does. These parts are lighter than wood, so you will feel more recoil. They are also available in different camouflage patterns. Since I enjoy hunting in inclement weather, I'll tend to bring a synthetic over a wood model.
One more important thing I need to add. The length of pull (LOP) needs to be measured correctly to fit the shooter. To do this, simply grip the shotgun like you would fire it, and place the butt in the crook of your arm. If you can comfortably reach the trigger, this is the correct LOP. Many manufacturers offer Bantam (youth) models with shorter LOP's that are designed to fit smaller shooters. Others offer inserts for the stock to adjust the LOP Most shotguns come with a standard LOP of about 14.5" which is designed around the average adult. Remember, if the LOP doesn't fit right, it won't be comfortable and may not be safe to shoot. You can injure your shoulder if not fitted properly, and may have problems controlling the muzzle.
Thanks for reading.
- Rhody
A wood stock and fore end add a classic beauty to any shotgun, especially if its a high grade walnut. However, it does requires extra care and cleaning to keep it looking like new. Because of the added weight, it will absorb more recoil than synthetic parts. Wood can chip, splinter, crack, and discolor if it's not cared for properly. Mink or boiled linseed oil does wonders on finished and non finished wood in terms of weatherproofing, and restoring the original finish. If you should happen to put a dent in the wood, here's a couple of tips for repairing it:
Place a washcloth over the dented area. Use an iron on a medium setting and steam the damaged area, checking every couple of seconds for effect.
Another way to repair a dent is to place a drop of water on it and let it set overnight.
Both will cause the compressed wood to swell, and the dent will remove its self.
Synthetics is the most durable material that stocks and fore ends are made of. They are weather proof, and don't require the upkeep that wood does. These parts are lighter than wood, so you will feel more recoil. They are also available in different camouflage patterns. Since I enjoy hunting in inclement weather, I'll tend to bring a synthetic over a wood model.
One more important thing I need to add. The length of pull (LOP) needs to be measured correctly to fit the shooter. To do this, simply grip the shotgun like you would fire it, and place the butt in the crook of your arm. If you can comfortably reach the trigger, this is the correct LOP. Many manufacturers offer Bantam (youth) models with shorter LOP's that are designed to fit smaller shooters. Others offer inserts for the stock to adjust the LOP Most shotguns come with a standard LOP of about 14.5" which is designed around the average adult. Remember, if the LOP doesn't fit right, it won't be comfortable and may not be safe to shoot. You can injure your shoulder if not fitted properly, and may have problems controlling the muzzle.
Thanks for reading.
- Rhody
14 December 2011
Shotgun Selection Part 1 - The Barrel
Selecting a barrel comes down to what you want in it's design, and what type of loads you want to fire. They come as smooth bore or rifled, and have a fixed choke or screw in choke design. Some may be ported to decrease felt recoil. You can get a single barrel model ,or a dual barrel that comes as a
side by side or an over / under. Here's a few things to consider when choosing a barrel or shotgun.
In regards to length, think about the environment where you will find your game. A longer barrel is more difficult to move with in heavy brush, but gives you more weight and balance when swinging through a bird and taking a shot. Shorter barrels are lighter, have greater mobility, and can be comfortably aimed longer.
Sights are another consideration. Most come with a single or dual bead as the standard sight. The single bead allows you to properly point the gun. The dual bead works by creating a figure eight (8), with the front bead on top and the mid bead on the bottom when you aim. High visibility fiber optic's are great open sights as they capture the natural daylight and glow, allowing the hunter to see their sight picture in low light conditions. The cantilever barrel has a rail built on to it to accept a sight system such as a reflex, holographic, or a scope and is rifled to fire sabot slugs.
The chambering of the barrel will be designed to handle different shell sizes. You have the standard 2 3/4" loads, and Magnum loads that are 3" and 3 1/2" in length. The larger the shell size, the harder its going to hit your quarry. However, keep in mind the recoil will hit you harder too. Always check to see what size shells the shotgun is designed to fire.
Thanks for reading,
- Rhody
side by side or an over / under. Here's a few things to consider when choosing a barrel or shotgun.
In regards to length, think about the environment where you will find your game. A longer barrel is more difficult to move with in heavy brush, but gives you more weight and balance when swinging through a bird and taking a shot. Shorter barrels are lighter, have greater mobility, and can be comfortably aimed longer.
Sights are another consideration. Most come with a single or dual bead as the standard sight. The single bead allows you to properly point the gun. The dual bead works by creating a figure eight (8), with the front bead on top and the mid bead on the bottom when you aim. High visibility fiber optic's are great open sights as they capture the natural daylight and glow, allowing the hunter to see their sight picture in low light conditions. The cantilever barrel has a rail built on to it to accept a sight system such as a reflex, holographic, or a scope and is rifled to fire sabot slugs.
The chambering of the barrel will be designed to handle different shell sizes. You have the standard 2 3/4" loads, and Magnum loads that are 3" and 3 1/2" in length. The larger the shell size, the harder its going to hit your quarry. However, keep in mind the recoil will hit you harder too. Always check to see what size shells the shotgun is designed to fire.
Thanks for reading,
- Rhody
10 December 2011
Remington 887 Nitro Mag review
Earlier this year, I wanted a shotgun that was durable, could handle all of the available load sizes, be able to endure the elements for long periods of time and it also had to have a mid bead. The Remington 887 Nitro Mag was the answer. The 887 is pump action and chambered in 12 gauge and can handle 2 3/4, 3, and 3 1/2 inch loads.
The first unique thing I noticed about the 887 was the ArmorLokt design. This polymer coating encases the barrel and the receiver, making it highly rust resistant. The magazine cap, stock, fore end, and trigger housing are also polymer, as is the interior of the receiver (a pleasant surprise). It has a Hi-Viz front sight with interchangeable light tubes, the barrel comes with a modified Rem Choke and I bought it with the 28" solid rib barrel (also available in a 26").
When I was at my FFL dealer, I noticed some things: the action release wasn't on the side of the trigger guard like my model 870. Located in front of the trigger guard, I found it to be easier to manipulate than the 870's design. The trigger group is easily removable.
The action is smooth, locked up tight and has a rotating lug, and the bolt assembly has a sliding shield on it.
Another great thing about the design is the extractor, which slides along the inside of the receiver and is spring loaded. The concept being that regardless of the shell length, it will eject as soon as the front end clears the breech.
The exterior design is molded for gripping the 887 well, even with heavy gloves on. The SuperCell recoil pad is a noticeable improvement over the standard hard rubber or polymer ones that are found on some other models. The molded swivel studs are a nice addition as well. The fore end has more side to side play than I'm use to, but doesn't affect the operation, and when I shouldered the 887 it pointed and swung well.
So, how does it handle in the field?
Excellent. My last hunting trip took place in a variety of environments, giving me a perfect testing ground. While I was out it was scraped against thorns, trees and rocks, dropped in the mud, and I cleaned it by sloshing it around in a stream. No problems occurred during the firing. The only thing missing that day was freezing weather and precipitation, which I look forward to.
Overall, I'm pleased with the 887. It's rugged and reliable. The price wasn't bad either, starting at around $400. Remington has done a fine job with this model, but still lacks the availability of accessory barrels. To my knowledge, the only one available for purchase is a rifled deer barrel with open sights. Hopefully they will have others available soon.
Thanks for reading,
-Rhody
The first unique thing I noticed about the 887 was the ArmorLokt design. This polymer coating encases the barrel and the receiver, making it highly rust resistant. The magazine cap, stock, fore end, and trigger housing are also polymer, as is the interior of the receiver (a pleasant surprise). It has a Hi-Viz front sight with interchangeable light tubes, the barrel comes with a modified Rem Choke and I bought it with the 28" solid rib barrel (also available in a 26").
When I was at my FFL dealer, I noticed some things: the action release wasn't on the side of the trigger guard like my model 870. Located in front of the trigger guard, I found it to be easier to manipulate than the 870's design. The trigger group is easily removable.
The action is smooth, locked up tight and has a rotating lug, and the bolt assembly has a sliding shield on it.
Another great thing about the design is the extractor, which slides along the inside of the receiver and is spring loaded. The concept being that regardless of the shell length, it will eject as soon as the front end clears the breech.
The exterior design is molded for gripping the 887 well, even with heavy gloves on. The SuperCell recoil pad is a noticeable improvement over the standard hard rubber or polymer ones that are found on some other models. The molded swivel studs are a nice addition as well. The fore end has more side to side play than I'm use to, but doesn't affect the operation, and when I shouldered the 887 it pointed and swung well.
So, how does it handle in the field?
Excellent. My last hunting trip took place in a variety of environments, giving me a perfect testing ground. While I was out it was scraped against thorns, trees and rocks, dropped in the mud, and I cleaned it by sloshing it around in a stream. No problems occurred during the firing. The only thing missing that day was freezing weather and precipitation, which I look forward to.
Overall, I'm pleased with the 887. It's rugged and reliable. The price wasn't bad either, starting at around $400. Remington has done a fine job with this model, but still lacks the availability of accessory barrels. To my knowledge, the only one available for purchase is a rifled deer barrel with open sights. Hopefully they will have others available soon.
Thanks for reading,
-Rhody
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